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swampy

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Reply with quote  #46 
Just picked up my Moose stainless steel oil filters for the 690! No more paper ones for me!
 
Whoo Hoo...
 

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The Honorable Mayor of Swampyville '10 Triumph Tiger 1050 '09 KTM690R '07 Kawasaki KLX250 (Mrs Swampy's bike) '03 Triumph Speed Triple '02 Honda CR250R tagged
EbarDP48

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Reply with quote  #47 
Sawmpy,you write that you really liked the seatconcepts seat at $170. I went to their website and that's just for the foam and cover. I've covered many MX bike seat covers so that should not be an issue, but when you bought yours, did they come assembled? I've actually used my air stapler a number of times to complete the cover with great results.
Not that I have any real reason to ask...just curious. You know, I like to keep up with the most current trends and modifications out there.
Bert

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Bert   09 KTM 530 07 Triumph Tiger 1050  06 Kawasaki KLR650 07 Yamaha YZ 250 1976 Husky WR250 1978 Suzuki RM250 1981 Honda CM 400 W/Velorex Sidecar Because the ride shouldn't end just because the pavement does! May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view. May your mountains rise into and above the clouds. -Edward Abbey Do not follow where the path may lead. Go instead where there is no path and leave a trail. Harold McAlindon
swampy

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Reply with quote  #48 
Yes, you gotta staple, but I figure that's worth $150 in savings....
 
Contact Yamahakid here at DDS, he's the Southeast Rep for Seat Concepts, Lives down in Arcadia, and is offering a discount to DDS members!

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CAPEHORN31

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Reply with quote  #49 
I love my Renazco but if I had not already paid the deposit, I would have gone the Seat Concepts route.  I rode Renfro Valley Dual Sport last weekend and it was very very technical, much like a National Enduro with out the time keeping. 
Terry 

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TERRY BROWN
Pelican Enduro Club 1970-1973
Ft. Walton Honda Enduro Team 74-78
1963 Honda Dream 305
1966 Honda CB160
1971 Kawasaki 125
1972 Bultaco Alpina 250
1973 Bultaco Alpina 350
1975 Honda Elsinore CR250
1978 Honda Elsinore MR175
1979 Husky OR 390
2005 KTM MXC 525
1991 Honda Mini-Trail 70
2010 KTM 690 R
swampy

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Reply with quote  #50 
Copied this as a reminder to self...




KTM 690 Enduro Fuel Filter & Fuel Hose Replacement
(Maybe this should be its own thread?????? Anyone with thoughts?)

Just want to say this is the first “How To” that I have put together so, bare with me please (ask some questions if it isn’t straight forward….). Also, I am by no means a trained mechanic. I am just one that isn’t too hesitant to take something apart and put it back together; a little better, if it needs it. So, Please be nice if I didn’t do something correctly. Mine is all back together and seems to run just fine since I performed the procedure.

Anyhow, I was going through the bike and got to the fuel filter replacement. Once I got in there and took off the stock clamps I couldn’t: a) find new clamps the correct size, b) find clamps which didn’t require a special tool which I also won’t have with me if I were out riding…

Secondly, I had read of fuel line kinking (I think the trick though is to curl the hose as it is inserted into the tank which essentially coils it up instead of allowing it to kink.) and I didn’t want to deal with this issue myself.
So, I sent Bobzilla a PM and asked for a little advice and this is what I came up with.

All part are available from Napa Auto and were available right then and there except the hose. (I had to special order the hose from another store but it was there the next day. If I wanted to drive 30 miles I could have had it right away).

Parts:
(4) 11mm to 13mm hose clamps (the 13mm to 15mm are a little easier to get on)
(2) 13 to 15 mm hose clamps (used for larger line connecting to regulator & intake assembly)
(1) 3011 Napa Fuel Filter
(1) Package of H209 5/16” x 1’ Submersible Fuel Line Hose


Procedure:
Take off the seat, plastic, air intake (don’t forget the sensor on the bottom), fuel line, lower tank bolt and then tip up the rear subframe/tank for access. I had the shock out too. This probably made access easier.

Take out the Four screws holding the fuel pump housing in and drain the tank. I found a five gallon bucket sat on the swingarm and caught all the gas. Just let the pump sit there and don’t remove all the way. Go to the backside of the tank and remove the four screws holding the regulator assembly.

Now, here is the hard part for those faint of heart. Pull out the pump and disconnect the electrical line and just cut the fuel hose. Pull out the regulator and pump and set on the bench.


I then carefully cleaned around both openings of the tank to get them ready for the reinstallation.

See the following pictures.

Here are all of the components laid out.


Ready to install



Underside of tank. That is the opening for the regulator.



Notice length of trimmed hoses. I trimmed the line back to the pump but left the little ribs on there for better attachment of the hose. I also left about 5" of the return line attached to the regulator.



The whole assembly as it will connect. I used a 3" piece of hose between the pump and filter and the rest of the 1' length between the filter and regulator. You will also notice that I don't have the crappy wire filter on the bottom of my pump. I got a Profill Australia Filter from Renazco Racing. Call them as its not on their website.



I used the natural curve of the hose and oriented it so that it pointed toward the direction of the pump




I started using this for all of the fasteners into the tank





Regulator and hose routed into tank




Per Bobzilla's recommendation I wired the pump housing together. There isn't much room on the side of the housing and the opening into the tank so, turn the wire in toward the center of the pump.



Pump and Filter ready to connect to hose from regulator



Here is the assembly connected ready to go into the tank.



At first I tried to put the pump straight into the tank and I would get about half of the housing in and it wouldn't want to go any further. This is when I remembered the twist in the stock hose and I turned it 180 degrees toward the regulator. This was also in the natural twist of the hose. The pump slid in like it was made to be in its assembled location and not out of the tank.

I turned the bike on and allowed the pump to cycle a couple times prior to starting. Then I disconnected the fuel hose quick disconnect and let the air pressure escape and get the fuel to the injector. It fired up like it hadn't sat for a minute. All in all, I am pretty stoked to have this worked out as well as it did. All the parts are available over the counter from Napa now we just need to find a pump from them too and we will be all set.......

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The Honorable Mayor of Swampyville '10 Triumph Tiger 1050 '09 KTM690R '07 Kawasaki KLX250 (Mrs Swampy's bike) '03 Triumph Speed Triple '02 Honda CR250R tagged
EbarDP48

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Reply with quote  #51 
So this link gives me a couple ideas to play with

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=685497'



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Bert   09 KTM 530 07 Triumph Tiger 1050  06 Kawasaki KLR650 07 Yamaha YZ 250 1976 Husky WR250 1978 Suzuki RM250 1981 Honda CM 400 W/Velorex Sidecar Because the ride shouldn't end just because the pavement does! May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view. May your mountains rise into and above the clouds. -Edward Abbey Do not follow where the path may lead. Go instead where there is no path and leave a trail. Harold McAlindon
swampy

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Reply with quote  #52 
More FYI....




it is a brass nipple screwed into a hole taped in te filler neck
a slight relief was made in the cap to stop interference and the hole in the cap epoxied shut

or...


Originally Posted by Blinkerfluid View Post
Is there a reason a 90 degree vacuum line fitting can't just be slipped on to the existing nipple? Then run a piece of tubing somewhere out of the way?

Is there a reason a 90 degree vacuum line fitting can't just be slipped on to the existing nipple? Then run a piece of tubing somewhere out of the way?
That's what I did...very simple, cheap, works fine...

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The Honorable Mayor of Swampyville '10 Triumph Tiger 1050 '09 KTM690R '07 Kawasaki KLX250 (Mrs Swampy's bike) '03 Triumph Speed Triple '02 Honda CR250R tagged
swampy

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Reply with quote  #53 
Bert,
 
You should get 100-115 miles on the tank before the fuel light comes on, and by that time, you'll wanna take a break anyway!
 
Extending the range on these bikes is expensive, and all the options look hideous except for the most expensive option from Rally Raid.
 
So far, I have not found any place where I needed more than what the current tank holds...
 
One important thing, do not run your tank dry, as it will burn out the fuel pump...

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EbarDP48

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Reply with quote  #54 
I really like the 690, but I can tell you the most disappointing thing I see about the bike is the stiff suspenion. After doing a few searchs it seems to be a common problem.
I worked with the forks today and got them much improved, but I could not find the adjustments on the shock..I didn't spend much time looking I might add.
I'll play with it a little more after I do some research.
I'm seeing good things about these guys. anyone here ever heard of them or used them?
Bert

http://slavensracing.com/

KTM 690E & R Enduro ’08-‘11

KTM 690 Enduro

Next Level Fork Re-Valve

$339 – (We don’t recommend the standard revalve for the 690 because of the extremely harsh fork and chassis combination)
Add $60 to the re-valve price to include oil seals & labor to change the seals. (Only high quality NOK or SKF forks seals are used. We’ve tested all of the cheaper brands and they don’t compare.)

The 690E & R WP fork is brutally harsh and stiff on the small hits (rocks, roots, washboard, etc.). This creates a very nervous front end and makes it a handful to ride in any conditions that are rougher than fresh pavement. For many riders a spring rate change is necessary.

Re-valve includes:

* Valving shims
* Cartridge fork fluid
* Next Level High Flow Passive Valve Pistons
* Hand machining to valving parts
* Clean and inspect all parts
* Labor
* 60 day warranty
* Unlimited phone or email support
* Re-work if needed

Does not include springs, seals, bushings, or other worn/damaged parts.
Shock Sox or Seal Savers are recommended for all models, applications, and conditions.


Shock Re-Valve

$239

The 690E & R WP shock suffers from the same problems as the front-end, extremely harsh valving that makes it kick and track poorly. Once these issues are corrected, the shock will be able to handle a wide variety of terrain and loads. It’s recommend that this be paired with the fork re-valve/re-spring to achieve proper balance and handling performance both on and off road.

Standard Re-valve includes:

  • Valving parts
  • Nitrogen
  • Shock fluid
  • Labor
  • Bleed fluid with WP/KTM Factory vacuum/pressure bleeding machine
  • 60 day warranty
  • Re-work if needed
  • Unlimited phone or email support

Does not include springs, seals, or bushings.

Want to know how to remove your KTM 690 Shock? KTM 690 shock removal video.


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Bert   09 KTM 530 07 Triumph Tiger 1050  06 Kawasaki KLR650 07 Yamaha YZ 250 1976 Husky WR250 1978 Suzuki RM250 1981 Honda CM 400 W/Velorex Sidecar Because the ride shouldn't end just because the pavement does! May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view. May your mountains rise into and above the clouds. -Edward Abbey Do not follow where the path may lead. Go instead where there is no path and leave a trail. Harold McAlindon
swampy

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Reply with quote  #55 
... and this about the ignition mapping...



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JohnHardiman

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Reply with quote  #56 

Jeff Slavens is a great Guy & very helpful. Sometimes difficult to get hold of as he normally does the work himself.


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EbarDP48

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Reply with quote  #57 
Finally broke down and bought my upper and lower replacement tank bolts from Rally Raid.

Surprisingly quick shipping time and nice quality to boot.

Installed the upper bolts last night. Saved the lower for this weekend.
Bert

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Bert   09 KTM 530 07 Triumph Tiger 1050  06 Kawasaki KLR650 07 Yamaha YZ 250 1976 Husky WR250 1978 Suzuki RM250 1981 Honda CM 400 W/Velorex Sidecar Because the ride shouldn't end just because the pavement does! May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view. May your mountains rise into and above the clouds. -Edward Abbey Do not follow where the path may lead. Go instead where there is no path and leave a trail. Harold McAlindon
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